Gavin's Current Postion: Kathmandu!
27th May: Hello Everyone, below are some words from Gavin in Kathmandu.
I am writing to thank everybody for their concern and support in the past few weeks during my climb of Everest in support of the Moving Mountains charity. Somebody said to me "there must be an easier way of raising money" and this time I tend to agree, the mountain certainly gave me a scare but now I am back in Kathmandu recovering well. I will not be running a hundred metres for a while but I have not lost any extremities, or of course my life, which is all that matters.
Chris has been wonderful in relaying news despite the fact that my satellite phone broke on Cho Oyu and I was largely without communications. The Chinese had erected a mobile phone repeater tower at Base Camp in the Rongbuk Valley but finding a place with a signal was not easy at all. In fact I only found one place on the whole of Everest, which was a small snow shelf at about 7600 metres near Camp 2, throughout the entire expedition. It was from here that I made an extremely emotional phone call to El on my descent from the summit, when my lungs were already brimful of liquid and, it is fair to say, I was still in imminent danger of dying.
I reached 8670 metres, the Second Step, following a very ambitious summit push direct from 7000 metres (the north col) on the 18th May. My fitness was unsurpassed, I had climbed to the north col three times in five days in the weeks prior, and was cruising at Sherpa speed. I firmly believe in considerable training of the lungs at altitude, and in view of what happened to them on the top, am convinced that it was this super-acclimatisation and strength that enabled me to get off the mountain alive.
I took a little oxygen at 8300m from Pasang in a borrowed tent just before the final push to the top. Heavy snow made the going hard, and my strength was less than I had hoped for. At the last, I decided the likelihood of collapse due to hypoxia and exhaustion was too high a risk. The Filipino team had completed a traverse and so had a single climber with a Sherpa, but both of them had considerable resources on the south side to greet them; I had nothing.
Remember also that every other climber up there is using full camps at 7500m and 8300m, with often another camp at 7900m, but I had none at all. Pasang and I squeezed into our friends' tent at 8300 metres for about 5 hours rest before continuing straight to the summit. I was attempting a very fast and ultra-lightweight summit bid in the hope of clear weather and good snow conditions to drop down the other side in double-quick time. In 2005 I went from base to summit to base in 32 hours so I was confident of my stamina. All my training had been geared to very fast movement on the mountain (by the end I was making ABC to north col in 2 and a half hours) but the risks for me were quite huge.
My idea stems straight from the experiences of the lightweight alpine ascents of climbers like Messner, Loretan and Scott. More lately, the so-called SuperSherpas Lakhpa Gelyu, Apa Sherpa and the late Babu Chiri Sherpa have all made lightning fast ascents, often having never left Base Camp. Their style is very unusual and in 2005 I managed to emulate them. This year I was pushing the bar higher by adding a crossing to the equation, although in reality a descent on the south side is easier than the north side.
The Hillary Step is easier than the Second Step. There is one section between the Hillary Step and the South Summit, which can prove to be problematic. After that the southeast ridge is quite easy and from the Balcony you could bumslide to the south col. From there the Lhotse Face requires care but to a mountaineer it is not a particularly difficult piece of climbing; occasionally the verglas on the Geneva Spur can be perilous, but essentially I was not too worried about the south side descent. I anticipated coming down the Icefall in the afternoon/evening when it is at its most dangerous and soft, but many people overdramatise the Icefall. In 2005 I rarely used my crampons there, and never used an axe.
The north side ascent on the 18th and 19th May was not the best; very soft snow and a very narrow route which followed a parallel to the north ridge for several hours before ascending directly onto the ridge itself. This is a very high point on the mountain and it was very windy. The East Face and the North Face both drop away many thousands of feet on either side of the climber. It was heavily snow covered (in 2002 it was all rock when I was stuck up there with Will and his dislocated knee) and required delicate steps. Sometimes the windblown cornices and bridges looked solid, but they overhung the Face.
The final summit jumble of rock was all mixed climbing and we negotiated the First Step in pretty atrocious weather; the wind was 25kph, gusting 40. It was of course pitch black but the sky was clear. It is astonishing how the wind cuts through so many layers; I suppose the ambient air temperature was minus 25 with a windchill of minus 30.
The pulmonary oedema came with insidious speed at the base of the Second Step and even now it brings a shudder. My lungs simply stopped working, and I came to a halt there in the dark. My mask was full of liquid and I was aspirating my own phlegm. Every breath gurgled and bubbled, and I could clearly hear the crackles from my chest. It was extremely frightening. The extreme hypoxia contributed to almost immediate hyperthermia; my joints creaked and in the pit of my belly it was as if a great ice block had been placed there. It only took minutes for extreme lethargy to set in and an inability to move.
The doctor would say later that a pulmonary oedema will kill you in about 12 hours, with the danger of collapse imminent any time in that period. My lungs were 90% full of liquid. I was completely aware of the circumstances and felt a combination of extreme fear and anger. I was very angry, but looking down the vast north face at my only way out, it seemed inconceivable that I could make it. I was coughing and retching in violent paroxysms, inhaling in very short desperate gasps, aspirating phlegm and making some very strange gurgling wheezing sounds. Getting what was left of my breath back was a monumental struggle, every second of which I was convinced I would pass out completely. I seemed to be hanging by only the faintest gossamer thread of oxygen, and I have never experienced such an awful feeling. My entire body was uncontrollably shaking from both the debilitating cold and the raw fear.
And there the story might have ended, but for one Pasang Tendi Sherpa who appeared like an angel and whose ministrations kept me in touch with the old mortal coil and whose insistent, and ineffably polite, exhortations to descend were the lifeline I needed. I had to downclimb a few feet at a time before the paroxysms forced me to the ground again, but it was Pasang who shouldered the oxygen bottles and cajoled me between the coughing fits to continue a bit more. He gave me a mask which was too loose for my face, but the oxygen he gave filled me with some strength and hope.
It took thriteen hours to get to ABC, and it was a descent I will never forget. At 7400 metres Pasang ran out of steam himself and clipped himself to a rope to fall asleep. He spent a lot of the time in tears with the sheer physical and emotional intensity of our experience, and I was certainly not in the calmest state of mind. I know very well the dangers of a pulmonary oedema, and I needed to descend further. The last section downclimbing from the north col to the floor of the West Rongbuk glacier was extremely difficult, I was very poor on my feet. But I made it, and the Doctor expressed considerable surprise that I had completed such a do-or-die mission. As I said, I put it down to phenomenal strength and training which meant my lungs were like a yaks bellows; but I also will tip my head to personal willpower and drive.
So, yes, it does seem a rather extreme way to raise money! But I am a mountaineer and I love mountains and I love Everest. I have no regrets or recriminations or sense of self-pity. Of course I choose to climb Everest in very unusual ways, very difficult ways actually, so I must expect to play for high stakes. But I have now climbed her four times, and gained great experience, so like any sportsman I make my choices based on sound judgement. I am back now by virtue of my own ability and strength and a chap called Pasang who saved my life, and you just move on.
But the expedition has raised a lot of money for Moving Mountains and that charity which I officially started in 2001 after years working in Kenya, is now a large and comprehensive organisation doing a wide range of good work in East Africa and Nepal. More importantly it is well run, and we have a strong vision of long term aims. I can say that my small adventures on Everest this season will contribute directly to the benefit for many hundreds of people in schools, hospitals and orphanages, and all thanks to the donations from so many people. Thank you very, very much. Sitting here in my flat in Kathmandu, lungs still wheezing a bit, I am filled with gratitude and a feeling that, once again, it's all been worth it.
Gavin
23rd May
Hi Everyone, Just a quick note to let you know that Gavin has reached Kathmandu and last night managed to get his first nights sleep. He sounds very hoarse, tired and shell shocked. He says that the last week seems in a strange, haunting way like a dream. He is now resting up and hopefully we'll hear from the man himself over the next couple of days. His experience high on the mountain is quite remarkable and one I'll keep for Gavin to tell! Today, having been updated of the overwhelming support and emails for him and the charity he is quite shocked and humbled by how many friends and supporters he has and thanks everyone from the bottom of his heart. Every single donation will go towards making a difference to some very special people in Nepal, Kenya and Niger. Gavin sends a big hoarse hello and thanks to everyone for following the climb.
22nd May
Hi Everyone. Gavin had another rough night at Base Camp. His lungs feel like they are on fire and he has lost his voice however he is now on a Jeep heading towards the border of Tibet and Nepal and should reach Kathmandu tomorrow (23rd) for some well deserved rest and recuperation. He'll have a chest x-ray before hopefully flying home in the coming days. Again he has been bowled over by all the support and sends his best wishes and thanks to everyone watching.
21st May 1100hrs – Gavin Safe at Base Camp!
Hello Everyone, I have just spoken to Gavin and he has safely reached Base Camp. He says that he feels lucky to be alive and owes everything to the efforts of Pasang Tendi Sherpa who assisted him on the way down. Gavin has a lot of experience on Everest and has never felt or suffered from altitude however this time it was very different. Gavin was at around 8700m when he felt like he was hit by a speeding truck. He quickly realised that he was not in a good position and was suffering with pulmonary oedema. His lungs were full of fluid and he felt that he could go not go up or down. He quickly became hypothermic and felt that his time was up. His organs and brain did not have the oxygen to function nor could they get it from his fluid-filled lungs. With the fantastic support of Pasang, who brought him oxygen, and other Sherpas on the mountain they managed to make it to ABC. Gavin, usually the person helping others off the mountain, found himself needing the help. He did have a fall as he came down but thankfully sustained no serious injuries. Once at ABC the doctor could not believe that he had made it down considering the level of fluid in his lungs and said that he was lucky to be alive. His lungs were working on about 10% efficiency which would be horrific at sea level never mind on Everest! He had a rough night last night and is on medication to rid his lungs of the fluid. He hopes to get transport in the next few days to Kathmandu where he will undergo more medical checks and we’ll hopefully hear from the man himself at that point. Gavin sends everyone his utmost thanks for the kind donations to Moving Mountains and all the phone calls, emails and interest in his climb. As ever with Gavin he is upbeat though in a lot of pain at present but looking forward to getting home.
20th May 1000hrs
Hello Everyone. Sorry about the lack of updates. It was a case of no news is good news! Gavin has just called Elli and he is safe and well at ABC. He got down yesterday and has been resting and sleeping after an epic descent from we believe about 8700m. It has been reported that Gavin suffered a pulmonary oedema high on the mountain and had to get off quick. He also fell on his descent, where and for how far we are not sure. He has now seen the doctor and will head down to Base Camp tomorrow and be able to call in with all the facts. The main news is that he is safe and well at ABC. Thank you to everyone who has been calling and following Gavin’s climb and all your messages of support, we are over the moon that he is safe!
19th May 0800hrs:
Hello Everyone, it has been a long night here at the N. Ireland base camp due to the continuing communication problems however Gavin has just rang through to Elli and unfortunately it looks like he did not make the summit. Nothing as yet can be confirmed as the phone line was terrible but we believe that Gavin ran into some trouble high on the mountain, how high or what type of trouble we are unsure of. At present he is dropping from 7500m (camp 2) to ABC, he may drop lower but again this can not be confirmed. His shadow Pasang Tendi Sherpa is with him and he was able to call so we know that he is in good company and is not injured which makes us believe his trauma was altitude-related. As soon as we hear any more news and can confirm the facts we’ll let you know.
18th May 1800hrs:
No more news has reached us as yet. Gavin is without his Sat phone due to it being damaged. If all is going to plan he should have just left 8300m for the summit however this can not be confirmed. He hopes to reach the summit at 0600hrs...ish so roughly 0015 GMT. Be assured that as soon as we hear anything it will be posted here. Due to the lack of comms, news may come through another team, when Gavin is on his way down or if Gavin can borrow a Sat unit on the top. All for now, keep your fingers crossed!
18th May 0900hrs: Possible Summit Bid Tonight!
Gavin is now on his way from Camp 2 - 7500m to 8300m where he will rest for a few hours before hopefully going for the summit this evening!!! He reports good weather and feels well.
16th May - The Moving Mountains Everest Climb is aiming HIGH!!
Gavin rang in this morning saying he's planning to leave ABC tomorrow as the weather is looking good. Quite a few teams have reached the summit and the lines are now in place on both sides of the mountain. He'll be on the North Col on the night of the 17th and then leave at 3.00am on the 18th morning. He then plans to rest at 8300m for a few hours on the evening of the 18th before pushing for the summit. If all goes to plan he hopes to summit around 6.00am on the 19th!
He will then go all the way down to Base Camp in Nepal! Gavin sends his best regards to all at home, your messages of support and donations to Moving Mountains are hugely appreciated and make his expedition to Mt Everest so overwhelmingly worthwhile!
14th May
Gavin has reported that Summit Fever is running high at Advanced Base Camp. He made the 22km walk from BC to ABC on Saturday and is now nestled amongst the many teams awaiting a summit attempt at 6400m. Gavin reports that over 200 climbers are now waiting and watching the weather for a stab at reaching the highest point on earth. Gavin’s own summit attempt should be this week however we are keeping a close eye on the weather and other teams movements to see when Gavin will set off. Not only must he consider the other teams and weather on the North side but also on the South side. On the South side the fixed lines are not yet in place to the summit and reports say there are 150 climbers plus Sherpa’s, again anxiously awaiting a summit attempt. Gavin has called in and left a message for everyone which can be heard by clicking here and selecting Episode 4 . As soon as we have a definite move on Gavin’s attempt all details will be posted here.
10th May: 1500hrs
Gavin has just called in and as suspected the weather came in and resulted in a turn around. He is now at Base Camp at 17’000ft and the strong wind could be heard behind him. He started off heading from the North Col aiming to gain height to assist with his acclimatisation however a few hundred metres above the Col the wind picked up and the weather took a turn for the worse. Having been at over 23’000ft for a few days now he decided to drop altitude and not risk being caught out in a storm increasing his days at altitude, which in turn would zap his energy and potentially a summit attempt. He reports feeling very healthy and fit however would have liked to gain height to about 8000m in terms of acclimatising. He is now making it from ABC to the North Col in less than three hours, which is very fast indeed and a good indication of how his body is adapting to the environment. Heading up from the North Col Gavin reported that it was unusually warm and caused the snow to become very wet and with the amount that has fallen, very deep. He thinks there is a strong likelihood of avalanche. There is now more snow on it’s way with 35cm predicted for Sunday and again on Monday at 6500m – The North Col. He has not suffered at all so far though has managed to burn his face quite badly from the sun, he reports feeling like burnt cheese on toast, a lizard with peeling skin and says that he now looks like a 108 year old! So his sense of humour is still well in place! Reports from higher up the mountain indicate that the 2nd step is quite tricky this year and that a possible summit window is opening up for the 14th – 16th May. Gavin will now rest for a few days at Base Camp and then head back up. He will watch the other team’s movements as he does not want to get caught up in a big queue and hopefully make an attempt at the summit next week. As always updates will be posted as soon as we hear.
10th May: 0800hrs
Gavin’s expedition to reach the summit of Mt Everest from Tibet and then drop back down the South-east ridge is progressing well. Gavin has sent a message through saying that last night he was aiming to reach 8000m having now undertaken three journeys to the North Col. His plan is then to drop back off the mountain to Base Camp and rest for a few days before his summit push. The weather is not looking too optimistic but we’ll keep you updated as soon as news comes through!
7th May
Hi Everyone, Gavin’s traverse of Mt Everest is starting to gather momentum. He spent a couple of days at Base Camp and enjoyed some radial walks to higher altitudes. He then walked up to Interim camp a couple of times and then up to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). Gavin met up with some old friends and enjoyed the company. He reports that ABC is very busy with some large teams. He finds his light and minimalist approach somewhat refreshing as he has no need to do many carries of kit up the mountain nor does he have to stock camps. Already Gavin has been up to the North Col with Pasang twice. Pasang will use oxygen so he has been carrying up some bottles. Gavin reports feeling very well and his acclimatisation is coming on great. The plan for the coming week is to again go up to the North Col and spend a night. He will then push higher up the mountain to assist with his acclimatisation. He will then come off the mountain completely for some rest before his big push up and over our planets highest peak. There has been some snow fall recently and more predicted until Tuesday. Winds have been light and hopefully the weather is beginning to settle down. Gavin sends his best regards to everyone at home and thanks everyone for their support, messages and donations to justgiving.com.
1st May
Gavin is on his way to Interim Camp on Everest's North Side and all is going well.
Adventure Alternative leader Elli has just returned from Cho Oyu and below are some photos of the journey so far. Hopefully more photos will be added in the coming days.
Climbing Above Camp One on Cho Oyu The Ice Wall Below Camp Two
Gavin with Cho Oyu behind Pasang Tendi Sherpa
30th April - Everest Base Camp
Gavin has had a busy few days and been enjoying his time back at Everest Base Camp. His tactics in prior expeditions has always been to actively train every day as much as possible. Already he has undergone two huge treks to interim camp and back in 5 hours proving that his fitness and acclimatisation are well underway. The weather has now turned bad however he is hoping to reach Advanced Base Camp on Tuesday and today he is having his Puja, which is a traditional blessing everyone has before stepping on to the mountain. The ceremony will look after him whilst on Chomolungma, the Buddhist name for Mt Everest, which translates as the Goddess Mother of the World.
27th April
Everest Begins!
An emotional Gavin called in today as he now finds himself alone with the group from Cho Oyu having departed for Kathmandu.
The team were woken at 2am in the morning whilst they slept in a small village by the Chinese police battering at their doors. The whole experience seemed initially humorous however this soon changed as they realised the police where in pursuit of some climbers who apparently where heading towards Everest without the correct paperwork. Having gone through their paperwork and credentials the police headed on their way. The team then had some breakfast and headed towards Kathmandu, where they are now resting in the Guest House, eating Yak steaks and no doubt enjoying a cold beer.
Gavin and his shadow for the Everest climb, Pasang, remain at the small village and are now concentrating on the next step of the expedition, the traverse of Mt Everest from the North side, to the summit and down her South east route to Nepal. Gavin reports feeling very strong and well. He would like to have reached higher altitude on Cho Oyu to assist with his acclimatisation however he felt no effects on the mountain. The next few days will see him arrive into the North Base Camp and then on up to advanced base camp. A lot of the other teams are reporting masses of tents, teams and people at the base camps with very little room left. Gavin's plan at present is to take a couple of climbs up to the North Col with one overnight stay and then come off the mountain completely before going for the summit. He hopes to make it to 8300m on his summit attempt, stop for a few hours and then continue on up and over!
The weather has been difficult to date however everyone hopes it will soon settle down. It has been bitterly cold and being an El Nino year it is hard to predict when the winds will come off Everest's summit. His phone is still faulty however there are rumours that the Chinese have network coverage at base camp for his mobile. He still hopes to have his sat phone repaired and will hopefully be able to leave audio messages on EverestPost.com.
Gavin sends his best wishes to all his friends and supporters around the globe and special thanks to everyone who has made a difference for the many children and people supported by Moving Mountains by sponsoring him through justgiving.com.
All updates will be posted here as the expedition continues!
22nd April
Hi Everyone, the weekend has brought mixed emotions from Cho Oyu. The team, with fast approaching return flights and continuation of snow are now facing a dilemma. They have reached 6800m, just below camp two however the ice cliff leading to the camp has proved problematic. Gavin has reported that the cliff is 100 times more difficult than previous years with the ice on the 80 degree slope being concrete hard. It has turned to a technical climb requiring technical ice climbing axes and other equipment. With this challenge, safety and equipment in mind the team have started to clear the mountain. Although the team are disappointed not to make a summit attempt they are being realistic about the conditions and are all in very good spirits. It will take them a couple of days to clear out their kit and they hope to be back in Kathmandu on the 26th. They are all safe and well and send on their heart felt thanks to everyone who has supported them and Moving Mountains. The mountain may have stopped them in their tracks this time however they have made a sterling attempt and now look forward to some R & R in Nepal after the strong winds, cold and snow of Cho Oyu. - And Gavin..., well no R & R for him! He will soon leave his friends and companions and travel to Everest Base Camp for his oxygen free, lightweight traverse of our planets highest peak! Communication is still incredibly difficult with the phone problems, however Gavin hopes to have the unit repaired. All updates will be posted here.
18th April
Hello Everyone. Firstly apologies for yesterdays update, I'm afraid there were some errors in the facts! Gavin has called in again today and he's having problems with the microphone on his phone which leads to a very garbled message hence the errors yesterday. They were not actually at Camp 2 but below it at 6800m. They pushed hard today to get to camp two however the 80 degree ice cliff proved problematic. The ice was rock hard making it very tough going. The team are all in good form after a very tough day and are now back at 6800m and resting. Tomorrow they will drop back to Camp one and team up with Steve. Heavy snow is forecast for Saturday so they will be watching the weather closely. At present the winds are light and predicted to remain the same with occasional snow. They all say hi to everyone and Clay, Elli and Gavin thank everyone who is supporting their climb through www.justgiving.com
17th April
Four of the Team have now reached Camp Two just shy of 7000m! Gavin, Elli, Clay and Pasang are now catching up on some rest and carefully watching the weather for a possible summit attempt over the next 48 hrs. Meanwhile Steve is resting at Camp One and hopes to join up with the guys at Camp Two tomorrow. PJ has returned to Advanced Base Camp and is feeling fine but is looking forward to some rest. All reports from the mountain are good and the team are fit and well. We'll update you as soon as Gavin rings in again.
12th April
Just heard from the team on Cho Oyu and they have had tough two days on the mountain! They are all now safe and well and in good spirits back at Advanced Base Camp having spent two harsh nights at Camp One at 6400m. Their dramatic 2 nights were sleepless with all the storm flaps fully secured on their tents as they were beaten by 80 - 90mph winds. The weather of recent has become colder and colder with temperatures estimated at -20 degrees with the wind chill factored in. Alongside the high winds they have also experienced a lot more snow but all managed to eat well and look after themselves throughout the storm. The team are now having a few days rest at ABC, stocking up on fluids, food and sleep. They all send a big hello to everyone watching.
9th April
Hi Everyone, Gavin called in over the weekend to wish everyone a great Easter. All on the mountain is going well and the team are in good spirits though missing Mick who unfortunately had to return to Kathmandu having suffered with the altitude. The rest of the team are feeling very strong and have taken two loads of gear up to Camp 1 at 6400m. The camp is now well stocked and plans are coming together for their next step. Presently the team are back in Base Camp for a couple of days rest after the tough 10 hour hike over mixed and challenging terrain to Camp 1. The next step is to return to camp 1 for a three day visit which will also include a further climb up to camp 2 where they will drop off the gear required for the summit bid. They will then return to base camp and rest for a couple of days before going for the summit. The weather has been very good with very hot days and cooler evenings. There are currently two other teams at Base Camp and more reportedly on their way. The team extend their best wishes to all at home and thanks for supporting the climb.
30th March
Latest News: The team have reached Cho Oyu Base Camp and are reporting good weather. Everyone is in good spirits and all looks positive. Tomorrow they will move up to Advanced Base Camp.
24th March
Hi everyone! The team for Cho Oyu all arrived safe and well in Kathmandu and have had a busy few days finalising kit, equipment and supplies before the journey to their base camp. They are now in China at Zhangmu. Yesterday Gavin and Elli met the highest Guru in Kathmandu for a traditional blessing. They then had a wonderful evening with all Gavin’s Sherpa friends before starting their journey. They will be the second team into Base Camp on Cho Oyu. All updates will be posted here as the climb of Cho Oyu and Everest advance. The team sends a big HI, to all their friends, family and supporters at home.
14 March - how embarrassing! Mounteverest.net have written a piece about me. I think I prefer anonymity, but at they did get it right about me keeping to my principles of climbing. I suppose the prospect of failure to get to the summit doesn't matter so much when you're in it for the journey.
Everest permit and Cho Oyu permit arrived by email - Chinese on the ball!
2 March
Team preparation. All permits paid for and arrangements made in Kathmandu.